This Website is provided at no cost to you. I never charge for assistance or advice!
This website is supported through Affiliate sales and Donations!
Thank you for your support!

I have taken many of the questions I receive through Youtube, Facebook, Twitter, direct email and placed them here along with the answer I provided. I hope you'll find that perhaps your question is here and it will help answer it. Or perhaps you'll read something you never knew before.



Q: I'm deciding on my first plane purchase. I'd really like to get an EDF RTF jet in say a 4 channel. A buddy who has flown gas jobs tells me to start with a trainer like a cessna as they are much more forgiving. I see in most websites they say the EDF's are good for beginners. Are the websites full of it, or my buddy?
Im going to take it that when you say beginner, you mean, you've never flown anything before.  With that said, you'll save your self money and aggravation if you start to learn the basics of flight on a Flight Sim.  BUT, if you dont want to go that route, and you just want to fly something to try it out, then you Absolutely want to start with a High Wing Plane, like the Super Cub.    This is a drastic comparison but it will give you an idea the difference between flying high wing and low wing.  Take a pencil or pen, lay it flat in your hand and balance.  Pretty easy huh?  Thats a High Wing plane floating in the wind.  Now, Balance that same pencil or pen on it's end point in your hand.  Not so easy now. takes a lot of work.  thats a Low wing.    Like I said, drastic example, but you get the idea.
On my website, I tried to place my planes I have in categories, beginner, beginner upgrade, intermediate, Advanced. 
You'll notice all the EDF JETS are in the Intermediate to Advanced area.  There is Absolutley no such thing as a Total Beginner EDF JET.  What they actually mean to say is, a Beginner EDF jet, for the experienced pilot.  So if you have flying experience, and can fly low wing aileron planes, there are beginner EDF planes.
Q: Should the batteries require an initial charge or  do they come charged from the box and or does the first charge need a longer charge time? I got the brushed 380 motor job with Ni-MH 8.4V-600mAh batteries
Answer: Batteries.  Since you are using NiMh batteries, I would put in the plane, run the motor until the battery dies. Shouldnt take too long as the batteries only come about 1/2 charged.  Then let it charge 24 hours.  Before you go out to the field to fly, plug the battery back in to charge for 1/2 hour. This is called warming the battery.  This applies to NiMh batteries.  This will give you a good solid maximum charge and the longest flight time possible.  You will read and hear all kinds of things about NiMh batteries, like you should always run them all the way down before re-charging, etc.  This is simply not true.  NiMh do not have a memory like NiCad batteries did.  So you can fly for 2 minutes, and then recharge the battery.  The key to a full solid charge on NiMh batteries is a Slow long charge and then a warmup before using.  If you let the battery charge before you go to bed, and then remove from charger a 1/2 hour to an hour before you leave, then plug back in up till the time you leave, you'll have a nice charge.  I hope this makes sense.  Basically you are charging 8 or so hours, then unplugging resets the charger, plug back in 1/2 hour before you leave warms up the battery again. 
Q: The elevator and rudder throws have 3 options. What would you suggest,,,medium, mild or wild? I'm thinking, mild to start. One final ?,,,the antenna,,,should I let it fly behind her or tape it to the fuselage?
Control Throws.  I would start in the middle.  Having little throw on the controls can actually make it more difficult to fly.  You'll feel like you have no control.  In the middle settings, you have control, but not wild control.  If it doesnt feel like enough, then you can go up to wild throws.  Just remember not to over control the plane.  Its like driving a car on the highway. When you want to change lanes, very little wheel movement gets you over. You dont yank the wheel hard left to merge left.  Same with the plane. A smooth small amount of left stick will get you banking left.  Most people get in trouble when they over steer the plane causing it bank back and forth wildly.  If you have to, take off, steer a little and land right away again.  Do this over and over picking up distance you fly.  The hardest part is when the plane comes back at you.  The steering is reversed and this is where most people have their incidents. They want to go left, steer left, but the plane banks right, cause its coming at them. 
Antenna, you want the antenna away from electronics.  Run it either on top of the plane, from the cockpit up to the top of the rudder in a straight line, thus keeping it off the fuselage. the remainder of the wire let fly behind.  Or, Tape it along the bottom of the wing, out to the end and let the remainder hang from there.  This will really keep the antenna away from the electronics.
A quick tip on your Transmitter (I'll call it your TX from here).  Try to avoid Pointing your TX antenna directly at the plane.  The weakest signal of the TX antenna is at the tip point straight out.  A nice 45 degree angle from the TX antenna to the plane is best.  If you feel like you are losing signal to the plane, start moving right away toward your plane and turn the antenna from 45 degrees to 90 degrees in relation to the plane, dont point the antenna at the plane, you'll only make the signal worse.
Q: hi i was wondering when it says ARF it means all you need is a reciever and a controller and it comes with the servos and motors and all that stuff.
No. Let me give a quick break down of the different meanings. These are typical standard meaning but some companies do misuse these labels, so be sure to read the description of whats included in the box if you can.

RTF (Ready to Fly) - Should Include Everything you need to fly including battery and Transmitter. A Charger is usually the one item if any, is missing. RTF planes typically are super quick to assemble.

BNF (Bind N Fly) - Bind YOUR Transmitter to the plane and fly. Plane is basically ready to fly, includes a Receiver (Typically a DSM2 module), most include batteries and chargers.

PNP (Plug N Play) - Plane is Ready to Fly but You supply the Transmitter and Receiver.

ARF (Almost Ready to Fly) - Needs a few small finishing touches, like glueing in Ailerons, Rudder, Elevator and you have to install the engine and radio gear yourself. They do NOT include servos, engines, electronics. They vary in degrees of completeness, from manufacturer to manufacturer.

KIT (Kit Versions) - Depending on what you are buying, the type of plane, a KIT version can mean different things. But typically, in all of them, they include only the main body, wings, tail kit, wheel kit, cowl, but NO electronics of any kind, and if balsa, uncovered. If Foam planes, they are typically totally unassembled.