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I have taken many of the questions I receive through Youtube, Facebook, Twitter, direct email and placed them here along with the answer I provided. I hope you'll find that
perhaps your question is here and it will help
answer it. Or perhaps you'll read something you never knew before.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Q: I'm deciding on my first plane purchase. I'd really like to get an EDF RTF jet
in say a 4 channel. A buddy who has flown gas jobs tells me to start with a
trainer like a cessna as they are much more forgiving. I see in most websites
they say the EDF's are good for beginners. Are the websites full of it, or my
Im going to take it that when you say beginner, you mean, you've never flown
anything before. With that said, you'll save your self money and
you start to learn the basics of flight on a Flight Sim. BUT, if you dont want
to go that route, and you just want to fly something to try it out, then you Absolutely
want to start with a High Wing Plane, like the Super Cub. This is
a drastic comparison but it will give you an idea the difference between flying
high wing and low wing. Take a pencil or pen, lay it flat in your hand and
balance. Pretty easy huh? Thats a High Wing plane floating in the wind. Now,
Balance that same pencil or pen on it's end point in your hand. Not so easy
now. takes a lot of work. thats a Low wing. Like I said, drastic example,
but you get the idea.
On my website, I tried to place my planes I have in
categories, beginner, beginner upgrade, intermediate, Advanced.
You'll notice all the EDF JETS are in the Intermediate to
Advanced area. There is Absolutley no such thing as a Total Beginner EDF JET.
What they actually mean to say is, a Beginner EDF jet, for the experienced
pilot. So if you have flying experience, and can fly low wing aileron planes,
there are beginner EDF planes.
Q: Should the batteries require an initial charge or do they come charged from the
box and or does the first charge need a longer charge time? I got the brushed
380 motor job with Ni-MH 8.4V-600mAh batteries
Since you are using NiMh batteries, I would put in the plane, run the motor
until the battery dies. Shouldnt take too long as the batteries only come about
1/2 charged. Then let it charge 24 hours. Before you go out to the field to
fly, plug the battery back in to charge for 1/2 hour. This is called warming the
battery. This applies to NiMh batteries. This will give you a good solid
maximum charge and the longest flight time possible. You will read and hear all
kinds of things about NiMh batteries, like you should always run them all the
way down before re-charging, etc. This is simply not true. NiMh do not have a
memory like NiCad batteries did. So you can fly for 2 minutes, and then
recharge the battery. The key to a full solid charge on NiMh batteries is a
Slow long charge and then a warmup before using. If you let the battery charge
before you go to bed, and then remove from charger a 1/2 hour to an hour before
you leave, then plug back in up till the time you leave, you'll have a nice
charge. I hope this makes sense. Basically you are charging 8 or so hours,
then unplugging resets the charger, plug back in 1/2 hour before you leave warms
up the battery again.
Q: The elevator and rudder throws have 3 options. What would you suggest,,,medium,
mild or wild? I'm thinking, mild to start. One final ?,,,the antenna,,,should I
let it fly behind her or tape it to the fuselage?
Control Throws. I would start in the middle. Having
little throw on the controls can actually make it more difficult to fly. You'll
feel like you have no control. In the middle settings, you have control, but
not wild control. If it doesnt feel like enough, then you can go up to wild
throws. Just remember not to over control the plane. Its like driving a car on
the highway. When you want to change lanes, very little wheel movement gets you
over. You dont yank the wheel hard left to merge left. Same with the plane. A
smooth small amount of left stick will get you banking left. Most people get in
trouble when they over steer the plane causing it bank back and forth wildly.
If you have to, take off, steer a little and land right away again. Do this
over and over picking up distance you fly. The hardest part is when the plane
comes back at you. The steering is reversed and this is where most people have
their incidents. They want to go left, steer left, but the plane banks right,
cause its coming at them.
Antenna, you want the antenna away from electronics. Run
it either on top of the plane, from the cockpit up to the top of the rudder in a
straight line, thus keeping it off the fuselage. the remainder of the wire let
fly behind. Or, Tape it along the bottom of the wing, out to the end and let
the remainder hang from there. This will really keep the antenna away from the
A quick tip on your Transmitter (I'll call it your TX from
here). Try to avoid Pointing your TX antenna directly at the plane. The
weakest signal of the TX antenna is at the tip point straight out. A nice 45
degree angle from the TX antenna to the plane is best. If you feel like you are
losing signal to the plane, start moving right away toward your plane and turn
the antenna from 45 degrees to 90 degrees in relation to the plane, dont point
the antenna at the plane, you'll only make the signal worse.
Q: hi i was wondering when it says ARF it means all you need is a
reciever and a controller and it comes with the servos and motors and
all that stuff.
No. Let me give a quick break down of the different meanings.
These are typical standard meaning but some companies do misuse these
labels, so be sure to read the description of whats included in the box
if you can.
RTF (Ready to Fly) - Should Include Everything
you need to fly including battery and Transmitter. A Charger is usually
the one item if any, is missing. RTF planes typically are super quick
BNF (Bind N Fly) - Bind YOUR Transmitter to the plane and fly. Plane is
basically ready to fly, includes a Receiver (Typically a DSM2 module),
most include batteries and chargers.
PNP (Plug N Play) - Plane is Ready to Fly but You supply the Transmitter and Receiver.
ARF (Almost Ready to Fly) - Needs a few small finishing touches, like
glueing in Ailerons, Rudder, Elevator and you have to install the
engine and radio gear yourself. They do NOT include servos, engines,
electronics. They vary in degrees of completeness, from manufacturer to
KIT (Kit Versions) - Depending on what you are buying, the type of
plane, a KIT version can mean different things. But typically, in all
of them, they include only the main body, wings, tail kit, wheel kit,
cowl, but NO electronics of any kind, and if balsa, uncovered. If Foam
planes, they are typically totally unassembled.